Two Paddlers: Whales, Fog, and Diesel Fumes

Ellen

We got up at 6:00 to break camp and catch the 7:23 slack tide to make our crossings. We decided that in order to make the ferry time we wanted and get home at a decent hour that we should make our crossing today. That way, all we had to do the last day was a couple of miles back to Telegraph Cove. We packed up as quietly as we could so as not to disturb our neighbors and set out at 7:18. It was foggy, of course, but we were treated to one last view of the humpback whale as he surfaced about 50 yards in front of us. We crossed in thick fog. I had nothing to keep my bearings; I actually thought we were crossing to Compton Island to be safe, but we were actually heading directly across Blackfish Sound to Hanson Island. The fog broke a bit as we rounded the east side of Hanson after a fast, 20-minute crossing. We made our way through a narrow passage that proved to have a swift current against us.

Beyond that, we grabbed the main current--in our favor--and made a diagonal crossing to our campsite on Blinkhorn Point. Fog engulfed us a few times and we had to wait for the passage of a few fishing boats. It seemed odd at the time that all the fishing boats were also headed for Blinkhorn. In retrospect, I realized that they all went there to sell their catches to a larger fishing boat. Thus, the quiet little cove was full of diesel fumes, boat engine noise, and running generators. The campsites were not great either. They were tucked back into the woods a ways, with rotting picnic tables. At low tide, the beach was very long, covered in river rock rather than the pebbles we had experienced everywhere else. We both took a look around and decided not even to eat our breakfast there.

We paddled the last few miles to Telegraph Cove and ended our trip a day early. We took out on the dock and ate our breakfast--a rehydrated breakfast casserole of egg, hash browns, and sausage with toast. I had boiled it in the Dutch oven before we left Flower Island and then wrapped it in John's coat. By the time we got to Telegraph Cove three hours later, it was ready. It was a little cool but otherwise good!

We took showers at the cove for $1 per minute (Loonies only). It was wonderful to get clean! It took us about two hours from the time we docked to the time we began our drive to Nanaimo. Unfortunately, our day had only just begun. Though we arrived for the ferry and hour and a half early, we didn't get on the 5:45 sailing because there were so many people with reservations. We had to wait another two and a half hours for the 8:15 ferry. We made dinner in the parking lot--I rehydrated a tortilla casserole. We treated ourselves to an ice cream cone for dessert.

We had more waiting in store for us; getting off the ferry in Tssawassen, the ferry from Victoria was also unloading so there was a traffic jam at 10:45 at night on a Thursday. There must have been a delay somewhere because the two ferries don't usually unload at the same time. A traffic jam at the terminal also meant a delay at the border. After waiting about 15 minutes with only one lane open, fortunately, they opened a second booth and we were across the border in another five minutes. Every hotel I called in Bellingham, (by this time it was midnight), was completely booked, so we ended up driving all the way home, arriving at 2:00 am.

Though our last day was longer than long and the campsite a disappointment, I refused to let the day sour the experience of a lifetime. We had such a memorable journey in the Broughtons. I considered it to be my favorite of all our paddles. We enjoyed it so much that we began planning a trip for next summer while we waited for the ferry. Next time, we want to get up to Echo Bay and see the Burdwoods, camping at Cedar and Insect Island along the way. There is so much to do and explore. We will likely spend the rest of our kayaking days there.

I am a lucky person to be able to share such adventures with my partner, my best friend, my inspiration. Gaining the courage to do such trips has allowed me to experience places and sights many never see, giving me confidence, joy, and deep satisfaction. We share a good life.

I never would have imagined such a beautiful base camp. Flower Island is a place

to remember.

John

Sadly and silently we broke camp. We discussed plan a and b routes the night before and again in the morning. We made our decision according to the conditions on Blackfish Sound. It was foggy but calm and we were at the beginning of the slack. We headed across the sound instead of taking the longer but safer route to Compton Island and Blackney Passage. A few minutes into the paddle we heard the whale. Ellen saw it surface in front of us. Looking at the camera, I missed it. The fog was thick. We were going between 3-5 mph as we crossed to Hanson Island and south of Mel's Beach.

We paddled across Blackfish Sound in the fog. I was getting my GoPro on and recording when Ellen saw the whale, so I missed it.

As we headed into the Blackney Passage, I thought about a kayaker that told a story about a couple he came across after they had paddled the passage. Apparently they were not too concerned about slack tide as a good time to paddle Blackney Passage. They got caught in the passage at a peak and experienced rips, whirl pools, and boils. They clung to kelp in order not to be pulled into turbulent water. The kayaker telling the story said he had seen a whirl pool 2.5-3 meters deep in that passage. Scary stuff. We hit the passage during an ebb slack so the water should have been mild, which it was, and in our favor, which it wasn't. The current ran against us like a river. We had no problems because Ellen steered us near the shoreline where we found weaker currents and eddies.

Once we hit Johnstone Strait, we rode the ebb across to Blinkhorn Point. We wasted too much time there looking for a campsite and decided to paddle on to Telegraph Cove, skipping breakfast. As we rounded the last point prior to the cove, we encountered several tours making their way out of the cove. Everyone was using the slack tide. We used the dock to exit the double, eat breakfast, and unpack. As we were going about our business a tour group landed across from us. I watched one client struggle out of his double. He had a Swiss type of hat with a feather sticking out the left side. It looked like he had cotton for his outer layer. He reached into his cockpit and pulled a large gray case out of his cockpit by turning and twisting it. It was a guitar case! I always thought grade school teachers were angels. I will now throw in that heap tour guides after seeing that. Whoa. Maybe he was the tour guide.

I mentioned earlier I would describe my thoughts about B.C. Ferries. I had generated enough bad karma with not helping the two young kayakers the day before, so, not needing more bad karma, I will let Ellen explain. At least they got us safely across to the mainland.

The Broughton Archipelago is a paddler's dream location. Once we get the ferry situation, slack tide, and currents in the area figured out, we will return for numerous future trips. We will base out and then move on to a different base covering lots of water and hopefully experiencing more whales, Orcas, porposies, and eagles. Using the various resorts for resupply drops, showers, change of clothing, and a bed now and then, we could easily spend a summer in the Vancouver Island waters.

I would mention the possibility to my wife and paddle partner, but I am sure she has already made plans for revisits.